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A couple of weeks ago a small farmer in the Mojave Desert contacted us, asking if we’d like to buy one of his hormone-free Black Pigs. When you are a team such as us, united and thrilled by food, it’s not possible to turn down such a special offer.
The farmer emailed pictures of the two pigs he had, alive and eating and black. Matt chose the cross-bred Hampshire/Yorkshire “Blue Butt” male, weighing in at 165 lbs. When he arrived to us only a week later, we all gasped in awe for he had reached 210 lbs at the time of his slaughter and was delivered to our kitchen so soon after his fall that he still smelled of dirt and grain.
Matt, Taz and Migs sharpened their already sharp knives and went to work to break him down. Prone to an emotional stomach, I was expecting a disturbing pageant of gore that would prompt me to take flight but instead I witnessed a magnificent performance of respect and meditation as our three chefs quietly took their own space in the kitchen to reveal their skill and reverence for the butchery of this noble beast.
We have since used every part of this pig. Taz made Head Cheese, the two pork lions went on parties, all the bones were roasted and made into stock for Bolognese. The ribs were dry rubbed and smoked and sent to a party in Palm Springs (shout out to Phillip Lim). One of the legs was cured into Pancetta which we will put on crostini stations in the weeks to come. The shoulders were braised and barbequed for Sliders at Silverlake Wine last Sunday and the other leg was used for Tacos last night at the soft opening of our new Food Truck.
Tonight at Bar Covell, our Truck’s official debut, one of the two Pork Bellies left will be served as a Roulade so you can taste for yourself this Mojave Desert Black Pig which gives to us such exceptional flavor that you will take pause before ordering any other type of pork again.
Bar Covell, Tonight 7-9
